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Simply known
as "The Cedars", this resort settlement in Lebanon's highest
range is one of the most dramatically beautiful spots in the
country.
Its centerpiece is an ancient grove of cedars, a tree
synonymous for millennia with Lebanon itself.
Just below The Cedars is the town of Bsharre, birthplace of
Gibran Khalil Gibran.
The most exciting way to get to The Cedars is from Deir
al Ahmar in the Beqaa valley. The road snakes up the bare
eastern slopes of Mount Lebanon presenting marvelous views
at every turn. As you get higher, at the crest you look down
the other side into a gigantic bowl where the ski resort,
the cedar grove and the Qadisha gorge lie before you in a
wide-angle panorama. Plan this route for summer or fall
because snow closes the pass in winter.
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A more direct
way to The Cedars is from Chekka (south of Tripoli) to
Bsharre.
Two roads lead from Bsharre village to the cedars, about
seven kilometers up the mountain. The older road, known for
its hairpin curves, leads past the entrance path of the
Qadisha grotto. The new road, with more gentle engineering,
is kept clear in winter for painfree ascent. Whichever way
you take, the vistas are beautiful, especially when fog
rises from the valley. |
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Cedar
Trees During Winter |
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You first
arrive at a large assortment of hotels, chalets, night clubs
and restaurants, which thought not a village, does form a
local community of residents, visitors and local
proprietors. About a kilometer further on is the famous
Cedar grove where the road is lined with the inevitable
souvenir stands and small restaurants. the same road
continues to the ski area at 2,066 meters and goes over the
mountain and down into the Beqaa valley.
The Cedars is a resort for all seasons. In summer the
high elevation makes it a wonderful escape from the humid
coast while in winter skiing is the favorite activity. |
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The Cedars
in History
As remote as they are, the cedars are not untouched
by history. The grove we see today descends from an immense
primeval forest of cedars and other trees such as cypress,
pine and oak that once covered most of Mount Lebanon
including part of its east facing slopes.
The Cedar is an historical entity mentioned often in the
Bible and other ancient texts and it played an important
part in the culture, trade and religious observances of the
ancient Middle East. Serious exploitation of these forests
began in the third millennium B.C., coastal towns such as
Byblos.
Over the centuries, Assyrians, Babylonians and Persians
made expedition to Mount Lebanon for timber or extracted
tributes of wood from the coastal cities of
Canaan-Phoenicia. The Phoenicians themselves made use of the
cedar, especially for their merchant fleets. Solomon
requested large supplies of cedar wood, along with
architects and builders from King Hiram of Tyre to build his
temple. Nebuchadnezzar boasted on a cuneiform, inscription:
"I brought for building, mighty cedars, which I cut down
with my pure hands on Mount Lebanon". Prized for its
fragrance and durability, the length of the great logs made
cedar wood especially desirable. Cedar was important for
shipbuilding and was used for the roofs of the temples, to
construct tombs and other major buildings.
The Egyptians used cedar resin for mummification, and pitch
was extracted from these trees for waterproofing and
caulking.
In the second century A.D., the Roman Emperor Hadrian
attempted to protect the forest with boundary markers, most
carved into living rock, others in the form of separate
engraved stones. Today over 200 such markers have been
recorded, allowing scholars to make an approximate
reconstruction of the ancient forest boundaries. Two of
these markers, carved in abbreviated Latin, can be seen at
the American University of Beirut Museum. In the centuries
after Hadrian, Lebanon's trees were used extensively as
fuel, especially for lime burning kilns. In the Middle Ages
mountain villagers cleared forests for farmland, using the
wood for fuel and construction. The Ottomans in the 19th
century destroyed much of the forest cover and during World
War II British troops used the wood to build railroad
between Tripoli and Haifa. |
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The
Cedar Tree Itself
Of the immense forests of history only isolated
patches of cedars are found in Lebanon today. Growing at
high elevations, often in craggy difficult-to-reach
locations, these majestic trees still stir the
imagination.
In the north of the country, stands of cedars grow
in the Horsh Ehden Nature Preserve. More
inaccessible are the trees near Hadeth al-Jubbeh,
whose shape has been changed by trimming, and the cedars
near Tannourine.
In Jaj near Laqlouq isolated specimens of cedars
are still scattered on the rocky peaks above the town.
Deep in the Shouf district on top of Mount Barouk,
cedars some 350 years old grow in an enclosed grove.
These trees, which are in pristine condition, can be
easily admired from outside the protective wall. Above
the town of Maaser esh-Shouf, there is another
cedar forest, which has an extended view of the Beqaa
valley.
Cedar trees also grow in nearby Ain Zhalta. |
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Qadisha Gorge |
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The most
famous cedars, known as
Arz el Rab or Cedars of the Lord, are those of
Bsharre. Only in this grove, the oldest in Lebanon, gives an
accurate idea of the stature and magnificence these trees
attained in antiquity. About 375 cedars of great age stand
in a sheltered glacial pocket of Mount Makmel.
Four of them, many hundreds of years old, have reached a
height of 35 meters and their trunks are between 12 and 14
meters around. They have straight trunks and strong branches
that spread their regular horizontal boughs like fans. Also
among the inhabitants of the forests are some thousand young
trees, planted in recent decades to ensure the future of
this national resource. The slow-growing cedar, with its
long life span, requires at least 40 years before it can
even produce fertile seeds. Like any other treasure of great
antiquity, the Bsharre cedar grove requires special care and
protection. Concern for this modern remnant of historic
cedars goes back to 1876 when the 102-hectare grove was
surrounded by a high stone wall.
Financed by Great Britain's Queen Victoria, the wall
protects against one of the cedar's natural enemies, the
goats who enjoy feasting on young saplings.
More recently, a "Committee of the Friends of the Cedar
Forest", organized in 1985, is attempting to deal with the
damage and disease - brought by both man and nature - that
afflicts the trees. To improve the general health and
appearance of the forest, the Committee has removed tons of
dead wood and fertilized the soil. Various pests and
diseases are being treated and lightning rods have been
installed for further protection. Three thousand meters of
attractive pathways have been built so visitors can enjoy
the grove without causing damage. |
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Also due for
attention is a Maronite chapel in the center of the forest.
Built in 1843 when these cedars were under the protection of
the Patriarchate, the chapel is the scene of a special
annual celebration on the 6th of August. |
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Bsharre Cedar Grove |
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Skiing
in The Cedars
The scenery and the quality of the snow make
The Cedars an exceptional skiing venue. The pistes form
a natural amphitheater, and the high elevation means the
season usually lasts from December through April.
A French army ski school opened here in the 1930's
and the handsome building, which now belongs to the
Lebanese army, can still be seen near the cedar grove.
The chair lift, installed in 1953, is no longer in use
but the main runs are equipped with five T-bar lifts.
There are also four baby slopes with lifts. Ski rentals
are available from local shops, which also arrange ski
lessons with qualified instructors. Snack bars, hotels
and restaurants service the ski area. More facilities
are available at The Cedars "village" and in Bsharre, 15
minutes down the mountain. |
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In The
Cedars Area
The Cedars resort is set in an area of unusual
natural and historical interest. In only 30 minutes you can
drive from the crest of the mountain which soars nearly
3,000 meters above the resort, down to the bottom of the
steep-sided Qadisha gorge at less than 1,000 meters. Within
this area are rivers, springs, waterfalls, caves and other
natural formations as well as rock-cut churches, monasteries
and interesting villages to visit. There is always the
promise of a friendly welcome from the hospitable people who
live there. |
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If you have
time
An interesting tour can be made of the villages
around the horseshoe-shaped rim of the Qadisha valley. if
you are driving to The Cedars via the village of Qnat,
the first village you come to on the south side of the gorge
is Hadeth al-Jubbeh, a town which goes back to at
least the early 6th century A.D. A stop here is recommended
for the wonderful view of Qadisha.
Next comes Diman, the summer residence of the
Maronite Patriarch since the 19th century. The sites
overlooks the Monastery of Qannoubin, an early seat
of the Patriarchy. From Diman a steep path takes you down to
the gorge. |
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Cedars of
Jaj |
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Not far from
Diman is Hasroun, a red-roofed town that hugs the
edge of the Qadisha valley. This village is known for its
picturesque dwellings, old churches and gardens.
A pleasant pathway descends from here past several ancient
churches into Qadisha valley. Bqaa Kafra, reached via
a turnoff from Bqorqacha, is the highest village in
the country at 1,600 meters.
This picturesque town is also the birthplace of Lebanon's
Saint Charbel, born in 1828.
At the head of the gorge is Bsharre the hometown of
Gibran Khalil Gibran. |
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Gibran
Museum |
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Leaving
Bsharre you go around the horseshoe to Hadchit,
dramatically perched on a ledge over the gorge. If you
get off the main road and into the older part of town
you'll find traditional houses and streets, the typical
town square and some old churches. A path starting from
the lower town level, goes to bottom of the valley.
Anyone looking for souvenirs of cedar wood would do well
to stop at the workshops of Blawza before heading
up to The Cedars resort. This small town not far from
Hadchit, is also the starting point for walks to Diman
or the Qannoubin Monastery in the valley. |
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On the old
road between The Cedars and Bsharre a long path on the side
of the cliff leads to the small Qadisha Grotto. Below
the cave gushes out a powerful waterfall, especially full in
the spring months. It is possible to visit the limestone
formations. |
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Climb
Lebanon's Highest Peak
You can ascend the 3088-meter high
Qornet es-Sawda (or Black Horn), by foot or take
advantage of a rough track suitable for four-wheel drive
vehicles.
Allow a whole day if you want to make the entire ascent
and return by foot. The initial climb, following the path of
the chair lift, takes you about two hours and brings you to
a small hut at the end of the lift. From here you hike north
along the top for another hour. Look for patches of last's
winter snow and porcupine quills along the way. |
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Qadisha Grotto |
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An easier
way to the top is to take a road suitable for four-wheel
drive vehicles that starts at Dahr el-Qadib on the
highest point on the road between the Cedars and
Yammouneh in the Beqaa. From the summit, which is marked
by a large metallic tripod, you have a panoramic view of
the coast of Lebanon towards the west. It is said that
on a clear day the island of Cyprus can be seen. |
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Unusual
Dining
From the Cedars, a summer excursion takes you east
over the mountain towards the Beqaa valley to Ouyoun
Orghoch. Here tented restaurants cluster around a large
spring fed wetland where trout are farmed. Cold waters keep
drinks chilled on the warmest days. |
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