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Tripoli (Trablos),
85 kilometers north of Beirut, has a special character all
its own. Thanks to its historical wealth, relaxed lifestyle
and thriving business climate, this is a city where modern
and medieval blend easily into a lively and hospitable
metropolis. Known as the capital of the North, Tripoli is
Lebanon’s second largest city.
Forty-five buildings in the city, many dating from the
14th century, have been registered as historical sites.
Twelve mosques from Mamluke and Ottoman times have survived
along with an equal number of “madrassas” or
theological schools.Secular buildings include the
“hammam” or the bathing-
house, which followed the classical pattern of
Roman-Byzantine baths, and the “khan” or caravansary.
The souks, together with the “khans”, form an agglomeration
of various trades where tailors, jewelers, perfumers,
tanners and soap-makers work in surroundings that have
changed very little over the last 500 years.
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Fatimid
Construction in the citadel |
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Tripoli in History
Habitation of the
site of Tripoli goes back to at least the 14th century B.C.,
but it wasn't until about the 9th century B.C. that the
Phoenicians established a small trading station there.
Later, under the Persians, it was home to a confederation of
the Phoenician city states of Sidon, Tyre and Arados Island.
Built on the trade and invasion route near the Abu Ali
River, Tripoli's strategic position was enhanced by offshore
islands, natural ports and access to the interior.
Under the successors of Alexander the Great during the Hellenistic
period, Tripoli was used as a naval shipyard. There is also
evidence that it enjoyed a period of autonomy at the end of
Seleucid era.
Under Roman rule, starting with the takeover of the area by Pompey
in 64-63 B.C.,
the Romans built several monuments here. The Byzantine city
of Tripolis, which by then extended to the south, was
destroyed, along with other Mediterranean coastal cities, by
an earthquake and tidal wave in 551. |
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The
Great Mosque |
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After 635,
Tripoli became a commercial and shipbuilding center under
the Omayyads. It achieved semi-independence under the
Fatimid Dynasty when it developed into a center of learning.
At the beginning of the 12th century the Crusaders laid
siege to the city, finally entering it in 1109. The conquest
caused extensive destruction, including the burning of
Tripoli's famous library, the Dar il-'ilm, with its
thousands of volumes.
During the Crusaders' 180-year rule
the city was the capital of the
"County of Tripoli". But Crusader Tripoli fell in 1289 to
the victorious Mamluke Sultan Qalaoun, who ordered the old
port city (today Al-Mina) destroyed and a new built inland
near the old castle. It was at this time that numerous
religious and secular buildings were erected, many of which
still survive today. |
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During the
long Turkish Ottoman rule (1516 - 1918) Tripoli retained its
prosperity and commercial importance and in these years more
buildings were added to the city's architectural wealth. |
Archeological Excavations
Tripoli has not been extensively excavated because the
ancient site lies buried beneath the modern city of Al-Mina.
However, a few accidental finds are now in museums.
Excavations in Al-Mina revealed part of the ancient southern
port quay and a necropolis from the end of the Hellenistic
period. A sounding made in the Crusader castle uncover Late
Bronze Age, Iron Age, Roman, Byzantine and Fatimid remains. |
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1 - The
Citadel
Overlooking the city is the imposing Citadel of Tripoli
known as Qal’at Sinjil (Saint Gilles) which has been
renovated and changed many times during its history.
Today the castle’s main features are an octagonal Fatimid
3 - The
Great Mosque
Begun in 1294 and completed in 1315, the Great
Mosque was built on the ruined 12th century Crusader
cathedral of St. Mary of the Tower.
Its large courtyard is surrounded by porticos and a domed
and vaulted prayer hall. Inside, one can still see elements
of Western architecture from the old church, including the
northern entrance and the Lombard style bell tower which was
transformed into the minaret.
The many foundation plaques and decrees inscribed in the
great Mosque and its surrounding madrassas not only
inform us about the building but reveal details of the daily
life of the Mamluke period. |
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4 - Taynâl
Mosque
This important mosque was built in 1336 by Saif
ed-Dine Taynâl on the site of a ruined Crusader Carmelite
church. The adjoining domed mausoleum holds the tomb of the
founder. Some elements of the original structure were
re-used in the mosque, for example, the two rows of granite
columns with late Roman capitals which stand in the middle
of the first prayer hall. The entrance of the second prayer
hall is a unique example of the architectural decoration in
Tripoli during the Mamluke era.
5 - Al-Muallaq
Mosque
The name means "hanging mosque", possibly because it
is on the second floor.
This small mosque, built in the middle of the 16th century,
has a plain whitewashed interior with steps leading down to
an attractive courtyard garden.
The minaret is octagonal and unadorned. |
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Hammam Al-Jadid |
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6 -
Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque
The beautiful Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque was built
during the first quarter of the 14th century A.D.
This domed structure has a square minaret erected above the
entrance arch and is ornamented with double windows which
have black and white stone arches.
The dark stone portal is decorated with stalactites and the
mihrab is covered with an ornate golden mosaic. |
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7 - Al-Qartâwiyat
Madrassa
The madrassa is known for the fine
workmanship of its ceilings decorated with honey-comb
patterns and stalactites, and its elegant façade of
alternate black and white facings. Built during the first
quarter of the 14th century A.D., Al-Qartâwiyat is probably
Tripoli's most ornate building and the only one with a
prayer hall covered by an oval dome. |
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8 -
Madrassa al Tuwashiyat
Built during the second half of the 15th century,
this structure and its elaborate mausoleum are constructed
of sandstone in decorative black and white patterns.
The portal is higher than the façade of the building and
decorated with shell motifs embellished by radiating zigzag
motif, stalactites and twisted colonettes. |
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9 -
Khanqash
This unique building in Lebanon was constructed
during the second half of the 15th century to house Muslim
mystics or Sufis. It is designed with an open courtyard and
pool. The courtyard is surrounded by small rooms and a
raised platform, or iwan, behind an arch of alternating
black and white stones. The arch is supported by granite
columns. |
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Souk
of Khan Al Khayyatin |
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10 -
Hammam 'Izz ed-Dîne
This public bathing-house was given to the city
by its Mam-luke governor 'Izz ed-Dîne Aybak. The
governor, who died in 1298, is buried in a mausoleum
beside the hammam. In building these baths, he
used choice remains from the Crusader church and hospice
of Saint James. The front portal is decorated with an
inscribed fragment between two Saint-James shells, and
the inner door is surmounted by the pas-chal lamb. The
Hammam 'Izz ed-Dîne was in continual use until recently
and it is now under restoration.
11 -
Hammam el-Abed (near Khan es-Saboun)
Tripoli's only functioning hammam is Hammam
el-Abed, probably built at the end of the 17th century.
It has the typical pierced domes of Mamluke and Ottoman
era public baths. The interior, with its cushions,
central fountain and traditional fittings, is a living
museum. |
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12 - Hammam
Al Jadid:
Built around 1740, and called the “New Bath”, this is by far
the largest “hammam” in the city, although it has not
been in operation since the 1970’s, its faded grandeur still
stirs the imagination. |
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13 - Khân
Al-Khayyatin
The Khân Al-Khayyatin or Tailors’ Khan, is one
of the oldest in Tripoli, dating to the first half of the
14th century. It was probably built on the remains
of a Byzantine and Crusader monument in the center of the
ancient commercial suburb which controlled passage over the
Abu ‘Ali river.
Thus, this “khan” has a different plan than the others
in the city. The restored structure consists
of a long passageway with tall arches on each side and ten
transverse arches. Just at its western entrance stands a
granite column surmounted by a marble Corinthian capital.
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14 - Khân
Al-Misriyyîn
The Khân Al-Misriyyîn (Caravansary of the Egyptians)
was probably built in the first half of the 14th century.
The traditional arcaded two-story khan has an open
courtyard with a fountain in the center. |
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15 - Souk
Al-Haraj
A unique sight, this covered 14th century bazaar has a
high vaulted ceiling supported by granite columns which may
have originally been part of Roman or Crusader structures. A
total of 14 granite shafts can be seen along the north,
south and east sides. Today this space is occupied by
sellers of floor mats, pillows and mattresses. |
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16 -
Lions' Tower
While most of the numerous coastal towers and
fortifications which protected Tripoli during Mamluke
times have disappeared or been encroached upon by modern
buildings, the mid-15th century Tower of the Lions is
still remarkably preserved. It was given this name in
the 19th century because of the lions carved in relief
that once stood above the entrance. The tower is
actually a fortress two stories high with lofty vaulted
ceilings. the west portal is in the typical Mamluke
black and white stone pattern. From the outside you can
see how the builders placed Roman columns horizontally
in the wall reinforcements. |
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The
Port of Tripoli in Al-Mina |
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Tripoli
Today
Modern Tripoli, which has a population of about
500,00, is divided into two parts: El-Mina, (the port area
and site of the ancient city) and the town of Tripoli
proper.
The Medieval city at the foot of the Crusader castle is
where most of the historical sites are located. Surrounding
this is a modern metropolis which is occupied with commerce,
banking and recreation. The area known as "at-Tall",
dominated by an Ottoman clock tower (built in 1901/2) in the
heart of downtown Tripoli, is the transportation center and
terminus for most taxi routes.
When shopping in the old souks or downtown area,
remember that gold is a good buy. Other popular items are
Tripoli’s famous sweets and traditional olive-oil based
soap, water pipes and brass work. Al Mina, the port area, is
a good place to find sea food restaurants and fish markets.
The city’s most comfortable hotels and Western-style
restaurants can be found in the beach resorts south of the
city. |
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Tripoli
International Fair
Tripoli has a permanent fairground designed by the
famous Brazilian architect, Oscar Niemeyer. Here important
exhibitions, trade fairs and other events regularly take
place. |
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If You Have
Time
Offshore Islands: Just offshore is a string
of small islands. the largest, known as the Island of Palm
Trees or Rabbit's Island, is now a nature reserve for green
turtles and rare birds. Declared a protected area by UNESCO
in 1992, camping, fire building or depredation is forbidden.
This island also holds Roman and Crusader remains.
Qalamoun, south of Tripoli, is known for
its brass industry. The roadside is lined with small
workshops and showrooms where brass bowls, candlesticks and
other objects are hammered out in the old tradition. |
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