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The Bride
of the Beqaa
A red-roofed town set among the eastern foothills of
Mount Sannine, Zahlé enjoys a prime location in the Beqaa
valley. Snowcapped mountains tower above it in winter, while
in summer its 945-meter elevation keeps the air light and
dry.
The city center spreads along both banks of the Bardouni
River, with the older section of town on the upper
elevations of the west bank and the shopping district on the
east bank.
At the northern end of town is the Bardouni river valley
known as Wadi el-Aarayesh (Grape Vine Valley) – the site of
Zahlé's famous outdoor restaurants. Zahlé styles itself
"The City of Wine and Poetry", and with good reason. In
this century alone some 50 poets and writers were born here
and almost as many wines and araks have been produced in
the area.
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The
Entrance of Zahle |
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The romance of
wine and poetry is balanced by Zahlé's more businesslike
position as the administrative and commercial capital of the
Beqaa valley (42.27% of Lebanon's territory) as well as its
rank as the country's third largest city (population
150,000).
Zahlé is also an agricultural town which produces
vegetables, fruit, grains and most importantly, grapes.
Tucked away from Lebanon's busy coastal centers, the people
of Zahlé have developed their own brand of individualism and
way of doing things. Even their spoken Arabic has a
particular flair. The city's reputation for intellectual
vigor comes from a long line of writers, thinkers and poets
who have contributed to Lebanon's cultural and political
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A
Panoramic View |
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Zahlé in
History
Zahlé was founded about 300 years ago in an area
whose past reaches back some five millennia. In the early
18th century the new town was divided into three separate
quarters, each of which had its own governor.
The city enjoyed a brief period as the region's first
independent state in the 19th century when it had its own
flag and anthem.
Zahlé was burned in 1777 and 1791, and it was burned and
plundered in 1860.
But during the rule of the Mutasarrifiah, Zahlé began to
regain its prosperity. The railroad line which came through
in 1885 improved commerce and the town became the internal
"port" of the Beqaa and Syria. It was also the center of
agriculture and trade between Beirut and Damascus, Mosul and
Baghdad. Considered the birthplace of the Lebanese army,
Zahlé has played a major role in the political life of the
country. |
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Zahlé's
Bardouni Restaurants
The Bardouni is a river that flows out of Mount Sannine
and down through Zahlé. It is also a name synonymous with
Lebanon's famous mezze and the delights of outdoor dining.
The Bardouni restaurant tradition began over a hundred
years ago with a few simple riverside cafes. Today it is a
virtual bazaar of tree-shaded eating places known as
"casinos," every one more inviting than the next. Not
surprisingly, competition is fierce, so each establishment
outdoes itself with fountains, pools, and cooling shade to
tempt potential customers.
Here you can enjoy the traditional Lebanese mezze as it
is served nowhere else. To add to the sense of timelessness,
delicious mountain bread is baked before your eyes and a man
in baggy trousers and fez is on hand to pour Lebanese
coffee. He can also provide diners with a hubble-bubble
(water pipe). On the cliffs above the Bardouni are the
restaurants of Kaa el Reem, also known for their excellent
food and atmosphere. |
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Wine and
Arak
Zahlé's association with the grape is pervasive, for it
lies at the heart of an area that has been making wine since
early antiquity. At the city's southern entrance the statue
of a graceful female personifies wine and poetry, but you
don't have to look far to see evidence of the real thing.
The hills north of town with names like Wadi Hadi, Harqat,
Bir Ghazour and Tell Zeina are covered with the neat rows of
vineyards that supply Zahle's wine and arak industries. A
tour of Zahlé's Ksara winery is a good way to see how wine
and arak are made. Of special interest here are the
extensive underground caves built around a natural grotto
known and enlarged by the Romans. |
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Local
Celebrations
Each year between the 10th and 20th of September Zahlé
mounts its week-long " Festival of the Vine", a
celebration shared with the city's " Flower Festival".
In a carnival-like atmosphere "Miss Vine" is elected and
cars are decorated with flowers representing national
symbols.
Zahlé is also famous for its Corpus-Christi festival
which dates back to 1825 when the town was spared the
ravages of a contagious disease. Corpus-Christi is
celebrated on the first Thursday of June with a torch-light
parade held on the eve of the festival. |
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WHAT TO
SEE IN ZAHLE |
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The Geha
House
A good example of Zahlé's local architecture is the
restored Geha House in the old part of town. Although
this is a private home, one can easily appreciate its
courtyard, garden and arched upper galleries – all typical
of 17th century architecture. |
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The
Old Serail (Municipality) |
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An old
underground tunnel 1,400 meters long leads from the
house to the church of St. Elias (Al-Tuwak). Built by
Sheikh Khalil Geha in the early 17th century, today the
seventh generation of the Geha family resides in this
24-room dwelling.
Other private residences in the same area are the
lovely al-Hindi, Youssef Azar and Wadih Skaf houses.
These are several hundred years old and also designed
with arcades and walled gardens. |
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The Serail
The restored Serail or government house in the old part
of town dates from 1885. This beautiful building, whose
architecture reflects the European and Arab influences of
the Ottoman period, will soon house the offices of the
municipality and a museum illustrating Zahlé's history. |
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At the
start of the 20th century Zahle began building hotels to
serve its budding tourist and summer resort trade. Although
the "Sohat" (health) Hotel built in 1878 has been
demolished, three establishments from this era can still be
seen: the Hotel America, the Hotel Akl and the Hotel
Kadri (undergoing restoration).
The Kadri, built in 1906, has seen its share of history.
The hotel was taken over by the Turkish army in 1914 and
used as headquarters and a hospital during World War I.
It was from the Kadri as well that in 1920 the French
Mandate authorities announced annexation of the judiciary
areas which would give "Greater Lebanon" its present-day
borders. |
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The Geha
Residence |
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The Souk
al-Blatt,
or "tiled market" is a market street leading to one of the
oldest parts of the city. A large part of Zahle's history
was written in this souk, where in former times travelers to
and from Syria, Baghdad and Palestine bought and sold their
goods. A project is planned to restore the street and make
it a center for crafts and other traditional activities.
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Housh El-Zarani
Housh El-Zarani is located near the post office on
the east side of the river. In past centuries this housh,
or market area, was a conglomerate of khans
(caravansaries), craft center and shops. Here shoemakers,
woodworkers weavers, copper workers and saddle makers plied
their trades. It was also an important commercial center
where vendors sold agricultural and industrial products.
Many of the old buildings, embellished by carved
ceilings, vaulted interiors and decorated façades, still
stand. Today these structures are somewhat obscured by
modern shopfronts, but projects are afoot to restore the
area. In the meantime you can still discover a taste of old
Zahlé here. |
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Sayedit
Zalzaly
Sayedit Zalzaly is Zahlé's oldest church. Built in
1700, it originally stood at the center of the city. |
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The Church
of St. Elias
The Church of St. Elias is the second church built
in Zahlé (1720). This impressive structure is also known as
Al-Moukhallasiah. |
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A View
of the Monastery |
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The Monastery of Our Lady of Najat
The
Monastery (1720) has the largest bell tower in
Lebanon. The monastery is known as well for a beautiful
icon of the Virgin Mary, a gift from the King of
Prussia.
The
Monastery of Saint Elias at-Tuwak,
which dates to 1755, was renovated in 1880 after a
fire. Today it remains one of Zahlés most venerable
monuments.
Tell
Shiha Hospital
The landmark Tell Shiha Hospital, with its red
tile roof, was opened in 1948. Located on a high hill of
the same name, this site is a good spot for photographs.
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Our Lady of
Zahle and the Beqaa
For the most spectacular view, go to the 54-meter-high
hill-top tower of Our Lady of Zahle and the Beqaa located
east of town. here an elevator takes you up to a viewing
platform overlooking the city and the extending plain.
The structure is crowned with a ten-meter-high bronze statue
of the Virgin, the work of the Italian artist, Pierroti. The
base houses a small chapel seating about 100 people. |
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The Zahlé area
has some scattered ancient remains indicating a history
going back at least to the Bronze Age (1200 - 3000 B.C.).
You can see cave tombs in the cliffs of the Wadi el-Aarayesh,
while Byzantine, Roman and Canaanite sarcophagi and ancient
pottery sherds have been found in the hills around the city.
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Ameneties
All amenities are available in Zahlé, which has plenty
of good shopping and souvenir shops. There are 12 working
hotels, numerous restaurants and cafés, plus recreational
centers, night clubs and cinemas. Sixteen banks do business
in this commercial center in addition to insurance and
currency exchange companies.
Zahlé's Tourism Office, a part of the Ministry of
Tourism, has offices on the third floor of the Chamber of
Commerce, Industry and Agriculture building.
Fifty-four kilometers separate Beirut from Zahlé going
via Sofar and Chtaura.
A slightly longer route is by way of Dhour ech-Choueir in
Mount Lebanon. Both roads bring you to the south end of the
town. |
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IN THE
AREA |
Karak
(Noah's Tomb)
One kilometer beyond Zahle is the 'tomb of Noah"
found in the village mosque. Although Noah's tomb is 42
meters long and 2.5 meters wide, tradition says that he
still had to be buried with his knees bent. There is an
ancient Arabic inscriptions on the walls of the mosque,
which was apparently constructed of reused Roman stones. |
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Furzol
In nearby Furzol you can see the scant remains of a
Roman temple just off the central roundabout. Beyond the
upper end of the town is the Wadi el-Habis
(Valley of the Hermit) with tombs and rock-cut
sanctuaries from Roman and Byzantine times. A
fascinating place to explore, hickers can also venture
up the rocks above the site. At the base of the caves is
a café with paved terraces. |
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A
Restaurant at Al Birdawni |
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Niha
Located in Niha village, this restored temple of the
Syro-Phoenician god Hadaranes is imposing in its size and
beauty. A much smaller temple nearby, perhaps dedicated to a
divinity related to water, has not been restored.
Upper temples: From Niha a steep rural roadway,
usually traveled by foot, takes you up 300 meters to Husn
Niha, or the "fortress of Niha". Here you will find two
partially preserved Roman temples. |
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Tannayal
This estate, now a farm, is located on the main road
just south of Chtaura and is identified by a large sign. A
visit to Tannayal, owned by the Jesuit fathers since 1860,
is a good introduction to agriculture in the Beqaa valley.
In addition to the usual farm animals you can see a large
collection of exotic fowl including peacock and doves.
A teaching facility for the Faculty of Agriculture at
Saint Joseph University, Tannayel also has vineyards and
fruit orchards. An artificial lake adds to the beauty of the
site. Locally produced dairy products are for sale here too.
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Kfar Zabad
and Ain Kfar Zabad
A steep footpath from this village leads to the
remains of two Roman temples located on a high hill.
Northeast of the lower temple is a rock-cut relief of Venus
locally known as "Bint el Malik" or the king's daughter.
For those interested in spelunking, a beautiful little
cave, explored to 125 meters, can be entered with the use of
ropes. Drive about a kilometer along a dirt road from Kfar
Zabad towards the Anti-Lebanon mountains. A mountain
footpath (15 minutes) brings you to the entrance. |
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